Key Developments in Cosmeceuticals: Highlights from the Midwinter Clinical Hawaii Derm Conference

Cheri Frey, MD

Photo courtesy of dermsquared

At the 2025 Winter Clinical Dermatology Conference, Cheri Frey, MD, of Howard University presented an in-depth review of emerging innovations in cosmeceuticals. Her session, “What’s New and Hot in Cosmeceuticals,” explored novel active ingredients, advancements in skin care formulations, and the increasing scientific rigor behind cosmeceutical development.

Evolving Landscape of Cosmeceuticals

Dr Frey highlighted that cosmeceuticals, while not recognized by the FDA as therapeutic agents, are being developed with increasing scientific validation. Recent trends focus on well-controlled trials and mechanistic studies to substantiate efficacy claims.

Breakthrough Ingredients in Pigment Control

Among the most promising ingredients, Dr Frey discussed Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol (Thiamidol), a potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase. A recent randomized controlled trial comparing Thiamidol 0.2% to 4% hydroquinone demonstrated superior pigment reduction, with a 43% versus 33% improvement in the modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI).

Another innovation, RNA interference (RNAi)-based RXI-231, targets tyrosinase mRNA, reducing melanin synthesis with minimal irritation. This ingredient holds promise for treating hyperpigmentation while avoiding the adverse effects associated with hydroquinone.

Advances in Photoprotection and Anti-Aging

Dr Frey also discussed acyclothymidine dinucleosides, a novel class of DNA-protecting molecules that absorb UV radiation and enhance DNA repair. Preclinical studies have demonstrated a significant reduction in UV-induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and a decreased incidence of skin tumors in animal models.

The presentation also underscored the expanding role of antioxidants in cosmeceuticals. Key compounds, including flavonoids (green tea, pomegranate), carotenoids (astaxanthin, lycopene), and resveratrol, have demonstrated photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effects in vitro and in clinical studies.

Peptides and the Future of Skin Rejuvenation

Peptides remain a growing frontier in cosmeceuticals. Dr Frey introduced AP31, a low-molecular-weight peptide with significant anti-inflammatory and extracellular matrix-stimulating properties. Clinical models show increased collagen III and elastin production, making AP31 a promising ingredient for anti-aging formulations.

Furthermore, she discussed advanced glycation end product (AGE) inhibitors, which counteract the deleterious effects of glycation on skin structure, preserving elasticity and reducing oxidative stress-induced aging.

Optimizing Skin Hydration and Barrier Function

Two comparative studies on Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)-enriched ceramide formulations demonstrated superior skin hydration and barrier restoration compared to standard ceramide-based creams. These findings reinforce the importance of tailored moisturizer formulations in dermatologic care.

Clinical Implications and Takeaways

Dr Frey emphasized that cosmeceuticals are increasingly backed by scientific validation, making them valuable adjuncts in dermatologic practice. As new technologies and compounds emerge, dermatologists must critically evaluate the evidence supporting their use to ensure optimal patient outcomes.